Interview With Cédric, Chef at La Table
Chef Cedric Erimée has managed La Table, the emblematic restaurant of La Grande Épicerie de Paris, for more than 2 years now. Accompanied by his team, he offers cuisine that’s both modern and generous, giving pride of place to seasonal produce. Explore backstage at this unique space, where the dish of the day sits beside the pastries, breads and fresh fish that are also sold in store.
How did you become a Chef?
I came to the restaurant business via the hotel industry. As an adolescent, I was already attracted by the excellent sense of service and the care brought to every detail. Leaving school, I worked for several different restaurants and hotels. I hugely appreciated those experiences, which serve me still today.
I first learned at a small, traditional restaurant in Fontainebleau. We made everything there, from seasoning the fish to cutting the meats.
I then joined larger establishments, like the Hotel Royal in Evian, the Michelin-starred restaurant of chef Thierry Marx in Bordeaux, and the Château Cordeillan-Bages. It was very creative cuisine, where we could think outside the box and make suggestions. Two and a half years later, in 2009, I made my debut in Bristol. We worked with enormous rigour and the precision in execution that is characteristic of haute cuisine. After a year’s travel in Australia and several very formative years at the Georges V and in Burgundy, I joined the kitchens at La Table in 2016, as chef.
How would you define the cuisine at La Table?
La Table is a good Parisian brasserie that connects La Grande Épicerie de Paris and Le Bon Marché. Our cuisine is mainly composed of simple produce, elegantly transformed. Seasoning, for example, is key; it must be exact to best serve the dish. For each recipe, we also highlight a particular condiment to make a difference in the way the dish is enjoyed.
Our menu changes approximately every 8 weeks so that we can closely follow the seasonality of fruits and vegetables. At the moment, we propose a transitional menu to mark the end of summer and beginning of autumn. Until the end of September, we use tomatoes from the Ile-de-France, which ripen later, with the first fruits of Autumn, from lentils to mushrooms and root vegetables.
Is there synergy between La Table and the stands of La Grande Épicerie de Paris?
Yes, lots! Every day, the bakers make our breads at the workshops in Rue de Sèvres. The poissonnerie stand provides all our oysters and seafood dishes, brought directly to the restaurant with each order. In this way, they arrive as fresh as possible.
Our desserts trolley is made of the emblematic and seasonal pastries made by our pastry chefs. In this way, we can offer a very wide choice, complementing our two dessert dishes. Finally, many suppliers, farmers and producers working with our 2 stores also supply us during the year.
Inspire us! What is your perfect menu, to be discovered at La Table?
As aperitif, I would choose a country pâté that we make here ourselves. It is an absolute marvel to enjoy with several slices of toasted Grand Pain! Then I would have a speciality of La Table: foie gras. We offer this almost year round, and it’s served with different accompaniments. At the moment it is perfumed with quinquinoix, an aperitif made of wine and green walnuts, served with a mushroom chutney and toasted brioche. Then, fish with our milk-poached smoked halibut, with stir-fried Erengii mushrooms, shellfish and walnut crumble. It is light and flavoursome dish.
For a sweet finish, I recommend the citrus Pavlova. At once light and fresh, this is another signature recipe from La Table, perfect for ending a meal.
Find the La Table restaurant on the 1st floor of La Grande Épicerie de Paris, from Monday to Saturday 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. and Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.